No & Low | The Italy Issue | Interview with Riccardo Astolfi
Riccardo Astolfi is a food innovator from Bologna, Italy, with a passion for fermentation, plant-based diets, and organic and regenerative agriculture. As a proud father of two wonderful children, Riccardo has dedicated years to creating truly innovative brands in the food sector. Among his notable achievements, Riccardo launched Italy's first non-alcoholic beverage fair, No/lo Bolo, in January 2024. His mission is to develop products that are not only delicious and healthy but also sustainable, addressing the needs of modern consumers. Riccardo is determined to revolutionize the way we think about food and drink, with a particular focus on the non-alcoholic sector.
Peter: How have you seen the non-alc category develop over the last 5 years in Italy?
Riccardo: Over the last five years, the non-alcoholic category in Italy has undergone a fascinating transformation, mirroring trends seen across Europe and likely the world. To understand this evolution, it's essential to distinguish between the pre-pandemic and post-pandemic periods.
During the pandemic, confined to our homes, many of us turned to drinking more, exploring online purchases, and experimenting with a variety of beverages—wine, beer, cocktails, ready-to-drink options, spirits, and so on. This period cultivated a new drinking culture, with people becoming their own bartenders and connoisseurs.
However, post-pandemic, we've witnessed a significant shift in consumption patterns. Younger generations, in particular, are increasingly health-conscious, leading to a trend of drinking less and seeking higher quality options when they do indulge. The climate crisis has also posed substantial questions for the alcohol production industry, particularly wine. This has spurred advancements in production knowledge, including both dealcoholization processes and innovative fermentation techniques.
Young people today are eager to experiment and explore, which has paved the way for a surge in non-alcoholic beverages. What once was limited to a few lacklustre non-alcoholic beers and overly tart imported kombuchas, typically only enjoyed by early bio-enthusiasts and health aficionados, has blossomed into a vibrant market of truly delightful and intriguing products. These new offerings are not only palatable but also stylish and cool, boasting genuinely interesting organoleptic properties.
Although the consumption of non-alcoholic beverages in Italy is still relatively limited and remains somewhat niche, the trend is undeniably on the rise. The market is expanding, driven by an increasing demand for quality and innovation in the non-alcoholic segment. It's an exciting time to be part of this burgeoning industry, watching as it breaks new ground and captures the imaginations of consumers looking for something different.
Peter: What are the brands / producers that you are most excited about at the moment? What are they doing that’s new or interesting?
Riccardo: At the moment, there are countless emerging brands in Italy, ranging from small startups to large companies venturing into the non-alcoholic market. If I were to highlight three particularly exciting trends, they would be:
Firstly, there's the new wave of Italian craft brewers. These artisans are beginning to explore how to create high-quality, artisanal non-alcoholic beers. They’re experimenting with unique ingredients and production processes, often focusing on locally sourced materials. This movement includes not only the brewers themselves but also the innovative producers of fermentation yeasts tailored specifically for non-alcoholic beer production. This segment is all about innovation and craftsmanship, pushing the boundaries of what non-alcoholic beer can be. These craft brewers are challenging the notion that non-alcoholic beer has to be bland and are instead producing beverages that are flavourful and complex.
Secondly, we have the micro-artisans producing high-quality kombucha. Two standout names in this field, although there are many others worth mentioning, are Selvatica Lab and Funky Fermenteria. Selvatica Lab, based in Sicily at the foot of Mount Etna, crafts small-batch kombucha using local plants that thrive in hot, volcanic soils. Their kombuchas are unusual and diverse, featuring a range of flavours that are both intriguing and finely balanced in acidity. The attention to local ingredients and small-batch production methods ensures a unique product that reflects the terroir of Sicily.
On the other end of Italy, in Veneto, is Funky Fermenteria. Their kombuchas are distinct from Selvatica Lab’s, featuring a beautiful design and graphics—no surprise, as the founder is a designer. Their brews are more approachable and sweeter, less acidic and refreshing, but equally focused on quality and a deep love for the local environment, such as the use of lagoon halophyte plants. The aesthetic appeal of Funky Fermenteria’s products, combined with their unique flavour profiles, makes them stand out in the burgeoning kombucha market.
Lastly, there's the intriguing field of proxies—non-alcoholic wines. Though there are few players in this space, Feral stands out with their mountain proxies. These non-alcoholic wines are meticulously crafted from beets, fermented and macerated, and once again, deeply connected to the local terroir. Feral’s approach is a testament to the potential of non-alcoholic wines to offer complex and satisfying drinking experiences that rival their alcoholic counterparts. The use of beets as a base ingredient is particularly innovative, showcasing the versatility and creativity within the non-alcoholic beverage sector.
The common thread among these Italian alcohol-free producers is their strong connection to the land, mimicking the approach to terroir traditionally seen in wine production. This commitment to local ingredients and traditional methods, combined with a willingness to experiment and innovate, sets these producers apart. While they are still relatively few in number, these producers are undoubtedly among the most exciting and innovative in the non-alcoholic scene, standing out even among many excellent more industrial and conventional producers.
It’s a thrilling time to watch these brands grow and evolve, as they not only meet the increasing demand for high-quality non-alcoholic beverages but also redefine what is possible in this category. Their dedication to quality, creativity, and local sourcing is paving the way for a vibrant and diverse alcohol-free market in Italy.
Peter: What are the biggest challenges to wider adoption of non-alc drinks in Italy that you’re seeing at the moment?
Riccardo: Every time a new wave, lifestyle, or approach to consumption emerges, there are always similar challenges: culture, taste, and price, among others.
Firstly, let's talk about culture. Italy is renowned for its excellent food and drink, and this makes it particularly challenging to compete with the dominance of wine and beer. However, it's important to understand that this isn't about challenging or fighting alcohol consumption. Rather, it's about introducing something different, potentially better or at least more interesting, to our daily tables and glasses. There are certainly preconceptions to overcome, but I’ve noticed a shift, especially among certain consumer demographics and within the restaurant industry. Yes, there will always be some teasing towards those who choose alcohol-free options, but that's part of the broader cultural change. The motto could very well be: "Drink less, drink better."
Secondly, there's the matter of taste. Non-alcoholic products—whether they be beers, kombuchas, proxies, wines, or spirits—are inherently different. Striving to replicate the exact taste of their alcoholic counterparts can be challenging, complex, and often elusive. It's akin to dissecting a frog for a scientific experiment: it’s unpleasant for everyone involved and the frog doesn’t survive. Thus, it’s crucial to offer products that are curious, fun, interesting, and good in their own right. They should be good, but different.
Lastly, we can't ignore the issue of price. Here, we're often talking about small producers of high-quality products who don't benefit from economies of scale. Their production processes are long, costly, and frequently involve intricate fermentation techniques. This results in high production costs, and when you add the significant costs of distribution chains, the price for the consumer can be quite high. Achieving price parity with quality alcoholic products is desirable and would help shift consumption habits. This scenario is very similar to what's happening in the vegan and plant-based alternative sectors, where consumers are slowly but steadily adjusting their spending habits towards more sustainable and health-conscious options.
In conclusion, while there are significant challenges to the wider adoption of non-alcoholic drinks in Italy, there is also a tremendous opportunity. The growing awareness and appreciation for health, the environment, and quality are driving changes in consumption patterns. By focusing on cultural acceptance, delivering exceptional taste, and achieving a justifiable price point, the non-alcoholic category can thrive and carve out a respected place in Italian dining and drinking culture. The parallels with the plant-based movement show us that with persistence and innovation, these shifts are not only possible but inevitable.
Peter: How will the category develop looking to the future? What are the biggest shifts that you predict?
Riccardo: At present, we are in a phase of expansion, enthusiasm, and growth. There's a palpable excitement as more people are eager to try new things, to jump on the bandwagon, and to adopt new lifestyles. I foresee this curve of expansion and exploration continuing for a while, bringing with it both benefits and drawbacks.
The benefits are clear: we will see a plethora of new products, some fascinating and innovative, others perhaps less so. This variety provides consumers with a broad range of options to explore and enjoy. The downside, however, is that the market will inevitably become crowded with "copy and paste" products—those that are less interesting or made purely to capitalise on the trend without offering anything genuinely new or exciting. This is the typical innovation curve.
As this expansion continues, we will see a natural process of consolidation. Some brands that emerged during this wave will disappear, unable to sustain themselves amidst the competition. At the same time, we will witness the entry of major multinational companies into the market, investing heavily in trends like kombucha and other non-alcoholic beverages. We've already seen this happen with non-alcoholic beer, and it's only a matter of time before it happens with other categories.
Looking ahead, the key for any brand aiming to survive and thrive in this market is to remember that taste is king. No matter how trendy or well-marketed a product might be, it must deliver on taste to keep consumers coming back. Beyond taste, values are fundamental. Brands that stay true to their principles, focusing on quality, sustainability, and local sourcing, will have a distinct advantage. The supply chain and sustainability practices must be robust and transparent, as consumers are increasingly making purchasing decisions based on these factors.
When the corporate giants arrive, these unique attributes—quality, authenticity, and a deep connection to the local community—will be the distinguishing factors that enable small, high-quality producers to sustain themselves. The giants might bring scale and efficiency, but they often lack the personal touch and genuine passion that smaller producers bring to their craft.
Furthermore, we can expect to see a deeper integration of non-alcoholic options into mainstream culture. Restaurants, bars, and cafes will likely expand their offerings to include more sophisticated and diverse non-alcoholic beverages, catering to a growing demographic that values health and mindful drinking. This shift will help normalise non-alcoholic drinks, making them a staple rather than a niche.
In summary, the future of the non-alcoholic category in Italy is bright, with continued growth and innovation on the horizon. The market will evolve, driven by both consumer demand and the inevitable entry of larger players. However, the core principles of taste, values, sustainability, and local engagement will remain critical for brands that wish to stand out and succeed in this dynamic landscape. It’s an exciting journey ahead, and I believe we will witness a flourishing of creativity and quality in the non-alcoholic sector that will enrich our drinking culture in profound ways.
Peter: Tell us about your own non-alc project? Where did the idea come from? What are your plans?
I'm currently working on a personal project, with the vision to bring a truly novel, innovative, sustainable, and interesting product to the market. My aim is to create something that addresses all the questions and needs a consumer might have when approaching the non-alcoholic market.
This is envisioned as a product with purpose. It will be delicious and healthy, designed to be beneficial for the environment, and perfect for both lunch and dinner settings. The goal is to offer something that genuinely makes sense to drink—something that’s not just another beverage but a meaningful part of the dining experience.
Innovation is at the heart of it, but it won’t be just a mere exercise in style. The product will be tasty without being overly sweet, and it will have the versatility to add warmth and charm to fine dining as well as casual bistro settings. It's about creating a drink that enhances the meal and brings joy to the table, no matter where you are.
Sustainability is a core pillar of this project. From sourcing ingredients to production processes, every step will be carefully designed to minimize environmental impact. This means working closely with local farmers, using eco-friendly packaging, and ensuring that every aspect of the product’s life cycle supports a healthier planet.
I know it is indeed an ambitious project. It requires passion, creativity, and a dedication to excellence. I'm excited about the journey ahead and am actively seeking companions who share this vision and enthusiasm. If you believe in creating something extraordinary that’s good for both people and the planet, I invite you to join me on this exciting adventure.
The beauty of this project lies in its potential to reshape the way we think about non-alcoholic beverages. It’s not just about providing an alternative to alcohol; it’s about enriching our culinary experiences, supporting our health, and protecting our environment. It’s about making choices that are not only better for us but also for the world we live in.